There’s nothing better after a hard day’s work than some hawker cuisine and a cold one, but even that can get old sometimes, can’t it? Enter Autobar: a contemporary Asian taproom that puts a twist on things.
Following the success of Autobus and drawing a decade of experience from founder and craft beer pioneer Lee Chee Li, this sophisticated yet welcoming restaurant represents the next stage of Singapore’s beer culture, with modern interpretations of traditional Asian dishes to boot.
So, here I am, deep within the heart of the Central Business District, ready to challenge those claims. Will Autobar’s assorted beers and Heritage Lunch Set truly lead the glorious evolution in Singapore’s culinary scene? Or will that title forever be held by my local nasi padang stall? Let’s find out.
Interior
Now, despite being tucked away in a corner of Republic Plaza, Autobar is hard to miss once it comes into view. Its golden chainmail curtains and bold black frames acted as a tantalising tease into the swanky interior it held, and upon entering, I was hit by the full extent of its extravagance.
Through its use of black marble, earthy-brown wood, and even more gold in its lighting, the interior design created a refined yet cheerful atmosphere ideal for both formal luncheons and social dinners–a perfect blend of luxury and comfort.
Moreover, I found the seating layout to be thoughtfully curated. With leather lounges for group meetings, intimate tables for two, and solo spots at the bar, Autobar made sure to cater to their clientele, even including those who would prefer none of these options!
Although this section is supposed to be only about the interior, I just have to mention that along with 60 indoor seats, guests can also dine amidst the lush greenery and towering skyscrapers of downtown Singapore at any of the 60 seats outdoors, offering a dining experience as varied as the menu itself!
Finally, it was clear that Autobar took their alcohol seriously. Besides possessing a selection of over a hundred types of wine, 20-odd beer taps, and a cocktail menu, their passion was further evidenced by the gleaming racks and racks of glasses–each reflecting the warm light around us.
Ultimately, despite the impressive display, only a taste test would determine if the flavours lived up to Autobar’s promise, so let’s get right into it.
Beer Flight
Our dining experience starts with an assortment of beers specially chosen by none other than the founder himself, Lee Chee Li, who previously explained and went through the menu with us.
After captivatingly pouring out each beer, the craft beer pioneer then served us four glasses of vibrant drinks on our tables, noting that they were arranged by order of increasing intensity.
However, before I could even register that these colourful liquids were alcoholic, much less ordered in terms of their strength, the tasting session had started, and soon, I was faced with my first beer.
Master Gao Brewing Baby Jasmine Tea Lager (5.6% ABV)
The first—and weakest—beer I drank was the Master Gao Brewing Baby Jasmine Tea Lager, a green concoction with a pleasant smell.
Going into this, I was assured by Mr. Lee that there would be no bitterness in this lager, for the green tea was of the highest quality. And taking a swig of this stuff, I can vouch for him and say that he’s right!
With a firm malty body and a soft sweet Jasmine tea finish, this beer got me nicely settled into the mood for the rest of drinks.
Rating: 8/10
Myth Monkey Beer Blue Galaxy Hard Seltzer (4% ABV)
Next up, it’s the Myth Monkey Beer Blue Galaxy Hard Seltzer, a unnaturally blue drink that, funnily enough, derives its colour from the all-natural blue spirulina extract.
Despite its tongue twister of a name, I found the beer’s flavour profile to be refresingly simple: a fruity burst of peach and lychee that’s reminiscent of a tropical punch, followed by a slightly salty aftertaste, mirroring the drink’s sea-like hue.
Thus, as someone who loves a good seltzer, the Myth Monkey Beer Blue Galaxy was right up my alley. Whether it’s the name or the potent charm it’s had on me, I’m sure I’ll be tripping over my tongue whenever I’m ordering this at Autobar.
Rating: 10/10
NO. 18 BREWING & CO. Go! Emblica (3.3% ABV)
Moving on, here’s the NO. 18 BREWING & CO. Go! Emblica, a personal favourite of Mr. Lee and one that takes him back to his childhood with its combination of sugarcane, chestnuts, and a lactic drink.
So, because of that, I feel genuinely terrible when I say I didn’t enjoy this drink. Sure, as a Yakult fan, I loved the subtle lactic undertone beneath the nutty flavours at first. However, the more sips I took, the more sickeningly saccharine the beer’s profile became, and soon, I felt truly nauseous after I drank enough for the malt notes to make themselves obvious.
Unfortunately, like most weird food combos, their parts are better off alone than together, and this drink is no exception. Sorry, Mr. Lee!
Rating: 4/10
Monkey King Monkey King IPA (6.5% ABV)
Finally, I tried the Monkey King Monkey King IPA, a classic no-nonsense beer with its characteristic use of hops.
And for a beer flight that has so far featured the most exotic fusions of flavour, what a pleasant surprise it was to end on such a good old beer. As expected, the IPA offered a lovely floral aroma, which in just one sip, transformed into a wave of bitterness that enveloped my mouth, a sensation that I unexpectedly enjoyed after all the sweetness.
However, whilst serving as a fantastic conclusion to this diverse tasting, I just can’t see myself drinking it on its own. Still, I’m sure it’ll be a hit with many beer enthusiasts, which is what truly matters in a place that’s meant for them.
Rating: 7/10
Heritage Set Lunch
Next, it was time for our Heritage Set Lunch (S$35++): an extensive meal that comprises three starters, an entrée, and a main, as well as a choice between complimentary artisanal coffee or tea.
Starters
While the House Achar, Nonya Chap Chye, and Blue Pea Jasmine Rice might appear unassuming, you’ll find out soon enough why these seemingly small plates are also the most crucial ones in the overall dining experience.
House Achar
First up, the House Achar. Regular, refreshing, and full of crunchy cucumbers and carrots: these pickled vegetables are the perfect palate cleanser between bites of the heavier dishes.
I’d also like to note that the pineapple is lovely. The cultivar used at Autobar provided a sweet body followed by a slight tart aftertaste–a flavour profile unlike any supermarket pineapple I’ve tried.
Unfortunately, the set only gives a saucedish of achar, but I just know I could’ve easily demolished an entire bowl of it just for the pineapple and the sweet and sour sauce it was picked in! Hence, it’s one of the better achars I’ve tasted, and it’s all thanks to the pineapple.
Rating: 7/10
Nonya Chap Chye
Next, here’s the Nonya Chap Chye, a starter that’s frankly too big and flavourful to be considered one.
With a flavourful soup and a variety of soft vegetables, this classic Chinese meal is executed perfectly. Furthermore, I was pleasantly surprised to find that the carrots, and especially the mushrooms, were so tender since they were unlike the other chap chyes I’ve eaten, likely because mushrooms take some effort to get soft. I owe you an apology Autobar, I wasn’t really familiar with your game.
However, if I had to nitpick one aspect of this meal, it would be the cured pork belly. Though they added a nice salty note to the balance of flavours, they were quite chewy. Yes, I understand that’s what curing does to meat, but the texture of the pork contradicted the softness that everything in the meal stood for, which made it literally and metaphorically tougher to swallow.
Putting aside that super insignificant tangent, the Nonya Chap Chye’s ability to be somehow deluxe even with the same humble ingredients, a fact that was unexpectedly impressive and tasty.
Rating: 8/10
Blue Pea Jasmine Rice
Finally, just like the House Achar, the Blue Pea Jasmine Rice is less of an independent dish and more like a side that accompanies the rest of the menu.
Though, don’t let that convince you that it’s not important! For rice is the staple food of Asia, and if Autobar wants to claim itself as ‘contemporary Asian’, they’ve got to get this right.
All jokes aside, this bowl of rice is nothing to rave about; that’s exactly its strongest point. As a starter meant to push others into the limelight instead of stealing it, the light flavours of jasmine and blue pea give the rice a subtle fragrance, executing this role perfectly.
Moreover, the firmness of its grains ensures that they hold up against the various soups, sauces, and curries paired with them, which all things considered, makes it a versatile dish.
Rating: 7/10
Entrées
Moving on to the entrées, while each set only comes with one choice, I had the opportunity to try two of them!
Even so, there’s no such thing as a free lunch, and so I ended up with a terrible yet tasty dilemma–which was superior? The answer? You’ll just have to find out by reading on!
White Rojak
Remember the pineapple I was raving so much about? Guess what? There’s even more of it in the White Rojak! That’s not all, though–it’s joined by turnip and Chinese pear, all drenched in a vibrant ginger flower dressing, delivering a unique spice only found in Peranakan cuisine.
But, beyond the dressing, this dish had no other compelling features to outshine its starter brother. Additionally, while the House Achar’s simplicity worked as a complement to the other dishes, this same splicity backfires on the White Rojak as an entrée, which I personally think demands a more complex flavor profile.
In fact, I’d even go so far as to say that the Nonya Chap Chye is more deserving of being an entrée, no matter how much ginger flower dressing is poured on my next bowl of White Rojak.
Nevertheless, it’s still a good plate of food by its own merits, and I’d much prefer to see the White Rojak replace the House Achar than vice versa. With that said, let’s see how the next entrée fares.
Rating: 7/10
Mushroom Dumplings
On the other end of the tray, weighing in at three delicious pieces, introducing…the Mushroom Dumplings!
From the moment I sunk my teeth into the silky soft skin, I knew that it was an unwinnable match-up for the White Rojak. Moreover, the filling—made out of shiitake, carrot, and corn—struck a perfect balance between sweet and savoury, packing an incredible flavour profile into such a petite dumpling that overshadowed the other entrée even more.
Honestly, my worst complaint for this dish would be that there aren’t enough dumplings, second only to how the ginger soy dip didn’t add anything significant to the dumplings’ already amazing taste. But even these feel like the petty gripes of someone who wants more for less, which I assure you, I’m not.
All in all, the Mushroom Dumplings are fantastic enough to be worthy of being known as the entrée, and you can quote me on that!
Rating: 10/10
Mains
Following in the spirit of the entrées, I’ve also got two mains to try despite each set only including one!
Let’s get this out of the way, though: the Beef Cheek Rendang wins this fight, and it’s not even close. Now, I know what you’re thinking: Is it that good? And the answer? In the spirit of the entrées, you’ll also just have to find out by reading on!
Beef Cheek Rendang
If you thought a back-to-back 10/10 was impossible, think again, because it’s time to discuss the Beef Cheek Rendang.
Oh my goodness, with a chunk of cheek this tender—a result owing to its slow braise with spices and coconut milk—even the most toothless of grandmas can devour this entire dish without the help of their dentures.
Moreover, the beef itself acted as a sponge, having soaked up the exquisite flavours of the Peranakan-style rendang right until the moment it’s eaten. Then, like clockwork, the moment it touched my tongue, each piece, without failure, would instantaneously release both the rich rendang essence and its own profound umami, delivering a layered, tasting journey unlike any other.
Yes, yes, here’s my obligatory complaint: while the meat itself is consistently spectacular, I can’t say the same for the fat, which, likely owing to the cut of beef, was an inconsistent gamble between being either delightfully creamy or downright disappointingly chewy. Is it a non-issue that won’t affect my rating at all? Once again, the answer’s the same: yes, yes.
Rating: 10/10
Catch of the Day
Even if the Beef Cheek Rendang has seemingly won all of my praise, it wouldn’t be right if I didn’t show some love to the Catch of the Day, which by itself is a perfectly fine dish, albeit one that still can be improved on.
Once again, I’d have to say that Mr. Lee was absolutely right with his descriptions, this time assuring us that the meal was ‘light, hearty, and easy.’ I enjoyed every bite of this fatty yet flaky fish, and though it wasn’t exactly mind-blowing, there was some semblance of texture and flavour at play with the lovely thin curry and the crunchy ladyfingers, respectively.
To put it simply, it’s safe. It’s not going to win any culinary awards, but it’s certainly not going to have you on the toilet like the Beef Cheek Rendang. Anyways, given that the Catch of the Day changes regularly, it’s also a good opportunity to try something new with the assurance of getting something reliable
Rating: 7/10
Desserts
Now, I know that I look like a big back ordering three more desserts that don’t even come freely with the Heritage Lunch Set, but when a man as genuinely enthusiastic as Mr. Lee offers to let me try even more of Autobar’s best, how could I possibly say no?
Therefore, to prepare my stomach for the sweets, I needed to refresh my palate after such a hearty meal, and the complimentary artisanal coffee and tea wouldn’t cut it. So, what was Mr. Lee’s solution? It’s, of course, another round of beer!
Shapowei Lemon Berliner Weisser (4.5% ABV)
As Mr. Lee’s go-to palate cleanser to serve, the Shapowei Lemon Berliner Weisser has once again, going three for three, once again, proven his expertise. The lemon is refreshingly acidic, and, combined with the subtle sourness of the Berliner Weisser, creates a drink more akin to Calamansi juice, which certainly does fit Autobar’s ‘contemporary Asian’ brand.
Though I can’t promise whether Mr. Lee will personally save you with this drink like he did for me, I’d still recommend getting this drink yourself after wolfing down any of Autobar’s heavier dishes for a refreshing reset.
Rating: 10/10
Yuzu Cheng Teng
Now, with my stomach ready for another round of food, I started with the Yuzu Cheng Teng, a longan and white fungus sweet soup served with yuzu sorbet.
This dessert was a delectable fusion of old and new, and in particular, I enjoyed how the cheng teng and yuzu ice cream blended together to leave a pleasantly tart-sweet aftertaste. The various longans and white fungus were also quite juicy, each with a subtle bounce to their texture, further enhancing the dish’s appeal.
While it isn’t the most complex dessert on the menu, it’s a food combination I didn’t know I needed until now, which is something I can’t say about the NO. 18 BREWING & CO. Go! Emblica. It’s a solid dessert, and one I also recommend eating solid: once the yuzu sorbet melts, its sharp tang dulls as well, ultimately resulting in a sugary mess.
Rating: 8/10
Mango Pomelo Sago
Following the Yuzu Cheng Teng, it’s the classic Mango Pomelo Sago: a familiar dessert consisting of mango chunks, sago pearls, shredded pomelo pulp in a mix of coconut milk and mango puree.
Two words: I’m satisfied! Though it did contain the same basic ingredients as any typical bowl of mango pomelo sago, the secret to its success lies in Autobar’s high-quality fruit. The mango chunks were exceptionally sweet and fleshy, while the shredded pomelo pulp provided a note of acidity, delivering a balanced flavour profile.
With all things considered, the Mango Pomelo Sago does what it seeks out to do excellently. Even if it didn’t have the most boldest of tricks in its bowl to stand out, this simple dessert was executed perfectly, which sometimes is all that’s needed to win my approval.
Rating: 8/10
Goreng Pisang
Finally, to end this meal on the sweetest of notes, it’s the Goreng Pisang. Contrary to what its name suggests, this dessert instead featured fried milk, banana ice cream, and freeze-dried banana slices.
I can’t lie, this dessert knocked the other two out of the park. While I’ve only ever tried fried cheese and ice cream before, after tasting the fried milk’s subtle creaminess along with its crunchy batter, I’m now fully convinced that every dairy product tastes 200 times better when it is dipped in flour and dropped in hot oil.
Furthermore, the pisang elements of this dish were exquisite too. The banana ice cream was remarkably authentic, tasting exactly like the real deal, while the freeze-dried banana slices added another welcome layer of textural complexity.
Simply put, there’s no better way to end this dining experience than with a fine plate of Goreng Pisang, and I’m incredibly grateful for Mr. Lee’s generous offer.
Rating: 10/10
Overall Thoughts
Unfortunately, after such an exquisite collection of food, drinks, and desserts, I’ll have to admit that Autobar’s culinary inventions did indeed surpass those of my local nasi padang stall.
Altogether, the carefully curated beer flights proved to be an exceptional pairing for the equally-flavourful Heritage Lunch Set, which contrary to my expectations, was incredibly filling. Honourable mentions include the Master Gao Brewing Baby Jasmine Tea Lager and Myth Monkey Beer Blue Galaxy Hard Seltzer, both of which greatly complemented the hearty Mushroom Dumplings and Beef Cheek Rendang.
Thankfully, though, amidst the rich and savoury dishes, there were also refreshing interludes like the White Rojak and Shapowei Lemon Berliner Weisser to provide moments of respite, allowing me to catch my breath in between the courses.
In summary, this was a truly fantastic dining experience, one that wouldn’t have been the same without the invaluable guidance of Autobar’s founder, Lee Chee Li. His presence, both in the kitchens and around the taps, as well as beside my table, significantly enhanced the tasting session, and for that, I give my compliments to the chef.
📍Location: 9 Raffles Pl, #01-03 Republic Plaza, Singapore 048619
⏰Opening Hours (daily except Sundays and public holidays):
- Dinner: 5pm to 10pm
- Lunch: 11:30am to 2pm
Reservations can also be made on their official website! Finally, do also check out their Instagram for the latest updates from this awesome contemporary Asian restaurant.
Photos by Leo Chia of the DANAMIC Team.
Autobar
